In summer of 2005 I was thinking about a KARA, but these surfboard boats just looked too tempting to try and build. However, I did not like the square styles that everyone has been constructing. I really liked those duck canoes that used to be made in MN Hoegren, Hoefgren? So here is the Monitor with a cockpit with rounded ends. The rounded ends just seem to make it a little more classy looking. Structurally they also more easily transfer stress around the boat hull better than square corners. This boat hides very well in our grass up here in AK. It actually does too well, because I couldnt see the ducks until they were right on me. I had never shot from a layout position before and was not able to mount the gun in time to connect with a bird. It was really fun to have them in my face though. It holds 300 pounds very well, but I have never tried to sink it by filling it with water. It paddles best with a long double bladed paddle while you are sitting on the floor in a kayak seat or on a MoMarsh Invisa lounge chair. You could use a bird and buck folding chair but they are made with outdoor patio chair foam and let water in so they wont float. The Invisa lounge is made with the same foam as PFD cushions and can be used as one even though they have yet to be given Coast Guard ratings. The following is the basic how to of building this boat. I have not inserted all the knowledge I have gained from reading the many books (Devlin, Kulczycki, and Schade to start) on boat building. There are a lot of technical gaps for the novice to fill in, but with the great online sources at RAKA, WEST System Epoxy, Glen-L, and other places this is not a major issue for anyone that is handy. I started with three pieces of 4 foot by 8 foot by 2 inch EPS foam (blue is all there is in AK). The third piece was cut in two and glued to each end of the 8 foot pieces using staggered butt joints and polyurethane glue, making a 12 foot double layered hull. I do not have a flat garage floor so there were some problems with small gaps between the layers of foam. I filled with expanding foam as best as I could, but gaps remain in some areas between the two layers. The first photo group shows the lay out of the curves and bends. I used a length of ash scrap as a batten. I stuck 16 penny nails into the foam to hold the batten against. The nail head keeps the batten from jumping up when being adjusted or drawn against. I used construction paper to draw the end curve on for transferring to the cockpit floor piece later. The upper left photo in photo group 2 shows the bow or stern measurements from the center line. The lower left photo in group 2 shows the measurements from the center line for the layout of the rounded cockpit. The final curves did not come out to these dimensions because I figured out that these measurements made a cockpit much longer than what I wanted 7 feet. Upper right photo in group 2 shows the bottom of the cockpit after being cut out of ¼ inch ACX plywood. It is 30 inches wide. The lower right photo in group 2 shows the piece that will be bent around the end of the floor. They are 9 inches wide. I used a ¼ inch up spiral bit in the router and free handed the cuts along marks about 1 inch apart. I recommend using a traditional router bit or clear out the shop to use the table saw for cross cutting grooves in an 8 foot long board one inch at a time. What I found out later is that my ash batten bent much better than the ¼ ACX even with the grooves. I recommend using the same material for the batten as for the cockpit. The two end pieces are a full 8 feet each and were about 2 and a half inches short of making a full enclosure of the 7 foot cockpit floor piece. The upper left photo in group 3 shows the rounded ends stitched to the floor piece with zip ties. I love zip ties. I will never stitch another boat with wire. I you leave them in. No welders. No battery charges. No propane torches. Did I mention that I love zip ties? The lower right photo shows my zip tie assistant. I could not have bent the side pieces and held them in place for stitching without her. Upper right photo in group 3 shows the cockpit with the inner floor seams filleted and taped with 8 inch glass. Prior to glassing, I filled the grooves with epoxy thickened with a 50/50 mix of wood flour and fumed silica (cabosil). I also placed a second strip of glass tape up to the top edge of the cockpit. I used the shelf brackets to hold the cockpit as flat as possible on my shop table. (Table is 24 bi-fold doors on small horses.) I had to epoxy in small filler pieces between each end piece, and then epoxied on an over lapping piece to hold it all together. I could have just moved one end in 2 inches and made a shorter cockpit, but I wanted 7 feet not 6 feet 10 inches. Lower left photo in group 3 shows the cockpit after all the epoxy has cured.